SquareMeal Review of
One-O-One at The Park Tower Knightsbridge
Given its location within the monolithic Park Tower, it’s not surprising that One-O-One feels a bit like a “90s hotel dining room” with its swirly brown carpet and wood veneer walls. Sweet, willing staff may lack the panache and gloss of other top destinations in the neighbourhood, but there’s no gainsaying the expertise of Pascal Proyart’s cooking. Although meat (and seasonal game) feature on the menu, fish is his speciality and he excels in every department. You can dine elegantly on Dover sole meunière or get down and dirty with Norwegian red king crab legs, served classically with aioli or with a more modish wasabi cream and tobiko. Other winning dishes from our visits have included a great chunk of cod sitting atop a truffled cassoulet of coco beans and parsley Béarnaise, and whole sea bass baked in Guérande sea salt and served at the table with saffron and fennel barigoule. The white-heavy wine list is neither too long nor too pricy.