Oldroyd 22

344 Upper Street , London, N1 0PD

020 8617 9010

Visit Oldroyd

  • Oldroyd London Islington restaurant
  • Oldroyd London Islington restaurant

SquareMeal Review of Oldroyd

Squaremeal London Hot 100 2016Wedged between two inconsequential outlets, Tom Oldroyd’s first solo venture after leaving Polpo is tiny and easily missed on chain-heavy Upper Street. But its diminutive size produces a convivial buzz – as does the open-plan layout and the draw of seasonal, modern European sharing plates. The food fills the minute tables: golden, crunchy smoked pork belly and pea croquetas are a must, soothed with truffle mayonnaise; chilli coriander prawns (a special) arrive shell-on: fortunate, given the piquant juices lurking within. Larger offerings include crab tagliarini dotted with succulent white flesh, sitting on a brown crab rouille that made us want to lick the plate. For dessert, salty pistachios and fresh raspberries cut through a decadent chocolate mousse, and a sweet, white-peach Bellini from the refined cocktail list also does the job. Oldroyd is surely set to become integral to Islington’s dining scene. Whether you can bag a table is another matter.

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10.0

Food & Drink: 10.0

Service: 10.0

Atmosphere: 9.0

Value: 10.0

Food & Drink: 5.0

Service: 5.0

Atmosphere: 4.0

Value: 5.0

Lynn W. platinum reviewer 30 July 2015

First off, and let's get it out of the way, the place is tiny. You squeeze past diners, staff and the minute kitchen to climb narrow spiral stairs to the upper room if you have booked a table, where you sit so close to others you can see and enjoy what they are having. Once the food starts arriving, you nod knowingly as your dishes match theirs. The croquettas are fantastic, peas and smoky pork in lovely crunchy crumb and truffled mayo to dip; lamb and almond meatballs are soft and tender, with a bit of bite from the nuts; confit rabbit and broad bean paella worth waiting for (though the squid seemed a bit rubbery and superfluous so we left it); summer peach and curd salad lovely and fresh; zucchini fries fine and delicate. The special monkfish dish of the day - not the one on the main menu - was a bit underwhelming and wasn't finished. The croquettas were so good we had to order them a second time. Staff looked after us very well, calm and charming, food arriving in no particular order as it was ready from downstairs. I admire their ability to manoeuvre through the tables. All very relaxed, and lovely to share the plates. If there is a downside it is a bit cramped, but if it carries on being as busy as we saw it that evening I don't think it will be too long before they're looking for somewhere larger.

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  • oldroyd interior
  • oldroyd restaurant upstairs dining room
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  • restaurant
Upstairs dining room
Capacity: 20