SquareMeal Review of
Norse is a treat for all the senses. Built into a hillside, the dining room is light and airy, with a wall of living moss making it feel like something from a fairy tale – although the most thrilling aspect is its modish Scandinavian-inspired menu. The Nordic influence is most evident in the preserving techniques used in many dishes, but the focus is always on freshness, seasonality and local sourcing. The menu is made up of artfully presented small plates, with bold flavours to the fore and a bias towards seafood: mackerel tartare with Jersey royals, smoked beets and chicory makes an ideal opener, ahead of a standout dish of confit hake – its meaty texture combined with hay-baked celeriac, mussels, roasted lettuce and BBQ bone sauce. Otherwise, we suggest the slow-cooked duck egg with cauliflower and sourdough followed by maple-glazed pork with carrot, burnt apple and whey-soured onions. Norse excels at making somewhat unusual dishes accessible to all, while its relaxed, laid-back atmosphere and gentle folksy soundtrack guarantee a memorable experience.