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Aimed higher than his eponymous deli/café chain, Yottam Ottolenghi's "gleaming" spin-off hits its target with ease: the cream-coloured ground floor is a serene space artfully decorated with white tiles, polished marble and brass fittings, while downstairs offers large communal tables and an open kitchen. However, readers save most praise for Nopi's "exquisite", "healthy" and supremely tasty food: raw cauliflower is paired with sprouts, nectarines and Gorgonzola, sea trout gets a global makeover with koji rice, watercress pesto and labneh, while beef short-rib keeps more familiar company with smoked beer glaze and horseradish. Whether you're sharing dishes or going it alone with one of the more expensive mains, it's all about creativity and depth of flavour. Signature cocktails also pick up on the kitchen's eclectic ingredients. Some bemoan high prices and petite portions, but most reckon that Nopi is "worth every penny".
Yotam Ottolenghi – whether you’re into London dining, love to cook, or even watched the chef grace your TV, his name is one that is familiar to most.Being a huge fan of mediterranean cuisine and also having my sister in town, it was no surprise that NOPI cropped up on our agenda with one of his most central London restaurant locations as the destination; Soho...
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Nopi is a London institution – it has been around for a while and it is the sit-down version of Ottolenghi’s casual grab and go outposts. I like Ottolenghi. His food is tasty (though usually overpriced) but I had never tried Nopi.My mother was visiting from Brazil, and she said that the one thing she wanted to do was to go back to Palomar, as she loved it when she was here last time.
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Front of house can make or break a restaurant. A cheery welcome wins hearts, but not this time on going into NOPI. Much lauded for its food and founders’ back story, the Soho outpost is a busy, shiny shrine five years on – and you still need to make a reservation. So we did.Tellingly their website reports “salads greet customers as they arrive” – and I’d rather a friendly lettuce than the reception we got from a slinky blonde, beautifully lit in the ice-cold blue of the reservations screen. A blank ‘computer says no’ look and we’re lined up against the white-tiled wall pending our fate.
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Nopi opened in Soho in 2010 to a great reception, and rightly so. It was an extension of the Ottolenghi chain of delis by Yotam Ottolenghi who is famous for his uniquely innovative blend of Mediterranean, Middle Eastern and Asian cooking. Nopi gave Ottolenghi a presence in Soho, but it also made his delightful food accessible to a wilder audience.I visited Nopi in June 2011, several months after it opened and loved it (you can read that post here). Little has changed in terms of the restaurant’s d&cor or design. Nopi is split over two floors. The ground floor is white throughout with individualised tables, and...
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