One of Leith’s most iconic drinking dens, this wonderful revamped Victorian hostelry – complete with ornate stained glass windows and one of the most imposing mahogany bars in Edinburgh – is a Jekyll & Hyde establishment. On Friday and Saturday evenings it’s a high-decibel venue for Leith’s young party crowd, but at other times it’s a spacious, friendly hostelry known for its fantastic food and splendid beer (the Black Isle Brewery produces Nobles IPA specially for the place). As well as pub-grub staples and the odd rabbit burger, the menu might run to seared scallops with celeriac purée, amaranth and sherry vinaigrette, Thai crab cakes or Scottish venison loin with wild mushroom ragoût.