SquareMeal Review of
Ninetyeight Bar & Lounge
The interior of this wacky basement bar-cum-gallery (a true original) favours Dynasty kitsch, pantomime baroque and school tuck-shop retro – presumably designed by a committee comprising Louis XIV,
Joan Collins and Willie Wonka. In contrast to such whimsy, its bartenders are deadly serious in promising ‘scrummy cocktails', sometimes delivered by toy trains on the bar counter. Deploying
home-infused spirits and bitters in vintage perfume bottles, sweet-toothed signatures include country cottage sour, off in the clouds (a sky-blue, lavender-infused Vesper served over fluffy candy
floss) and good old-fashioned Sunday roast (vodka infused with rosemary, oregano and orange). Otherwise, expect a list of constantly evolving fancy drinks, various classic cocktails, fine wines,
Champagne and bottled brews. Not surprisingly, the bar attracts its fair share of punters who drop by to take in regular live performances.