SquareMeal Review of
Spread over three floors gaudily festooned with red lanterns, gold dragons, calligraphy and artwork, this frenetic Chinatown eating palace is famous as a purveyor of dim sum served the old way.
Convoys of heated trolleys trundle through the dining rooms, periodically stopping at each table to unload: first come towers of steaming baskets loaded with everything from sui mai dumplings and
tripe with chilli to slithery cheung fun; then it’s time for the deep-fried stuff (won tons etc), followed by superb cold roast meats and other delights. Soups are prepared from vats of stock as
you wait, and the egg custard tarts from the sweet trolley are a must. It’s still cheap after all these years, especially if you bypass the full Cantonese menu. One tip: leave your teapot lid askew
if you’re in need of a refill.