Neptune

The Principal, Corner of Guilford Street and Russell Square , London, WC1B 5BE

|

020 7520 1806

|
Neptune Bar at The Principal London restaurant interior
Seafood platter at Neptune Bar at The Principal London
Bar dining at Neptune Bar at The Principal London
Smoked eel chowder at Neptune Bar at The Principal London
Neptune Bar at The Principal London
Kombu caviar at Neptune Bar at The Principal London

SquareMeal Review of Neptune

22

"VERY GOOD"

Neptune is the dining room of The Principal hotel, a grand Empire-era pile overlooking Russell Square that outdoes St Pancras for gothic drama. With high Victorian being about as fashionable a design trope these days as a noughties feature wall, Russell Sage Studio has gone for an almost mid-century Tiki look – rattan-backed bar stools, dusty pink walls, boldly patterned fabrics – although you can still spot plaster cherubs peeking from behind the fronds of tropical greenery like orphans in a Victorian ghost story. 


Neptune comes courtesy of chef Brett Redman and stylist Margaret Crow, who were a big hit on the east London party scene with The Richmond pub and its oyster happy hours. They’ve stuck with the seafood theme here, although with half the main courses involving meat from the wood-fired grill, the menu is not exclusively fish-focused.


A swimmingly fresh seafood platter accompanied by soda bread and seaweed butter was the best thing we ate, not least for the zip and zing of a trout tartare and mackerel escabeche; we were grateful to the waiter who took our crab legs away to be cracked by the chef so we didn’t miss a flake of the snowy white meat – a typically thoughtful touch from staff who showed consideration throughout the meal.


Nothing else we tried had such shimmering flavours; monkfish with white asparagus, brown butter and chicken sauce, and turbot with fennel, courgettes and an olive-oil hollandaise, were competent rather than compelling, while a plate of grilled red prawns had lost their firm texture, if not their sweet taste. There’s also a short vegetarian menu and, to drink, a wine list of natural and low-intervention wines – another individual touch at a restaurant that brings a welcome flourish of glamour and personality to Bloomsbury.   



Best Female Chefs Series

ANGELA HARTNETT

To celebrate the Year of the Woman, SquareMeal is running a series of interview profiles with top female chefs. Read here how Angela Hartnett made it to the top, launched her own group of restaurants and how she describes the secrets of her success.

Neptune Location

The Principal, Corner of Guilford Street and Russell Square , London WC1B 5BE

|

020 7520 1806

|
Opening times

Mon-Fri 7am-10.30am 12N-3pm 6-10pm Sat-Sun 7am-11am 6-10pm

Neptune's Reviews

This restaurant has not yet any user reviews. Be the first one to add a review to this restaurant!

Contact Neptune

Job Title