SquareMeal Review of
Anglo in Farringdon was one of our favourite openings of 2016, so anything that bears the imprimatur of chef-patron Mark Jarvis is good news where we’re concerned. Jarvis’s latest venture is an idiosyncratically British interpretation of the Parisian ‘bistronomie’ movement, combining high-end cooking with low-end prices in a casual setting with bare tables, strip lighting, fashionable artwork and counter seating for walk-ins. But while the prices might be high street, this is cooking that can easily compete with some of Mayfair’s better addresses. From our experience, chef Alex Harper (ex-Harwood Arms) is capable of delivering some really top dishes – try his “wobbly” veal sweetbreads (the best we’ve ever eaten) complemented by soft folds of pied de bleu mushrooms or a “daring pairing” of Herdwick lamb and smoky eel. But Neo Bistro can do delicate, too – witness a plate of white crab meat flaked over a vividly green courgette purée that sings sweetly of summer. Wines are equally off-piste: our charming waitress led us to glasses of Luxembourg Riesling and Austrian Blaufränkisch, for example. “Every reason to return”, says a Neo Bistro convert – and we’ll be doing just that.
Neo Bistro is recommended for