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Readers admit they “find it hard not to stop for lunch” as they pass Angela Hartnett’s well-appointed Michelin-starred flagship. It may look consummately smart and sleek, but Murano’s skirted tables and contemporary chandeliers aren’t the prime lure, nor the service (“always with a smile”) or the kitchen views from the chef’s table. Ultimately, it’s all about Hartnett’s deeply compulsive food, as channelled by talented chef Pip Lacey. Generous, richly flavoured, utterly seasonal and meticulously fashioned, it’s totally irresistible – we can never say ‘no’ to a meal here. Readers also enjoy the flexibility of a menu that allows diners to choose up to five courses, at will – perhaps exquisite chestnut anolini with mushroom consommé, sprout tops with autumn truffle or a leek tart with apple, Gorgonzola and walnuts followed by venison loin with parsley root purée, sloe gin plums, kale and granola. The Amalfi lemon tart is a hero pudding, but soufflés such as pistachio with hot chocolate sauce are rated “amazing”. Wines are mainly Italian, with plenty of treats in store.
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