SquareMeal Review of
Mr Kong closed permanently in January 2016
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Established in the 1980s, Mr Kong is a stalwart of the late-night Chinatown scene. It’s a Cantonese of the old school, with an exhaustingly long menu, white tablecloths, carpeted floors and green dining chairs – so why is it “still absolutely heaving” after all these years? Apart from the fact that it keeps long hours, it’s blessed with a legendary manager, bags of atmosphere, low prices and a full vegetarian line-up – plus a daunting array of esoteric chef’s specials alongside its spare ribs, baked lobster and roast duck. Try sautéed pea shoots with dried scallop, stuffed fish maw with baby clams and prawn paste or spiced pig’s knuckle with jellyfish (served cold). The lengthy wine list is also well worth exploring. Mr Kong’s loyal clientele ranges from Soho night owls and Asian corporates to Buddhist monks in search of strict vegan cuisine.