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34-36 Exmouth Market
The word “love” crops up repeatedly in Moro’s plaudits – a sure sign that it’s still held in high regard after rocking on for two decades. From day one, Sam and Samantha Clark’s ground-breaking eatery made an impact with its zinc-topped bar, pavement tables, wood-fired oven and compelling Spanish/North African cuisine. The whole shebang still thrills, although nothing can trump the food: heady spicing and subtly matched flavours are at the heart of things, from a lamb and saffron broth with wee dumplings, or a rustic salad of warm white beans and celery topped with bottarga, to luscious chocolate and apricot tart. In between, the wood-fired oven makes easy work of sesame chicken (served with couscous), while the charcoal grill offers up lamb with fava bean and bitter leaf purée. Alternatively, pick some small plates from the tapas bar menu – perhaps fried spiced chickpeas or anchovies on toast. The wine list shows the same geographical interests as the menu, and the sherry line-up warrants proper consideration. “Fabulous, I just love this place”, raves one fan.
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SquareMeal 3 Stars
34-36 Exmouth Market
020 7833 8336
Kings Cross Thameslink Station 650m
Farringdon Tube Station 702m
London Metropolitan Archives 109m
City University 477m
Mon-Sun 12N-2.30pm (Sun 12.30pm- ) Mon-Sat 6-10.30pm
Food & Drink:
Rate & Review
Food + drink: 4
Having dined here before, my expectations were high and I was not disappointed. The menu is fairly short, meaning that each dish can be perfectly executed and cooked fresh. The desserts I'm sure haven't changed for 18 years, but the Yoghurt cake is so good, why change it?
Exmouth Market is a gastronauts paradise, with Moro leading the way. The food isn't pretentious, it's just honest and full of flavour. Each dish has a great contrast of textures and flavours without being over complicated. The presentation is rustic but that just adds to the explosion of flavours beneath. The crab, prawn and mussel salad set the tone. Good meaty fish with a spicy, zingy background. The lamb with bulgar wheat and labneh was one of those dishes where you cut your final pieces into smaller bits just to extend the experience. Then dessert. The Yoghurt cake isn't really a cake, it doesn't even look that nice, just try it and you will love it. Try it with the rosewater and cardamom ice cream and your mouth will be singing all the way home.
Three courses with a couple of glasses of wine each comes to about £55 a head which I feel is great value for money.
We have been to Moro regularly. This time was a (not busy) Saturday lunchtime.
Food and drink were excellent as always but the service was ‘shared’ across tables, which meant basically no service.
The waitresses were too busy chatting by the till to take our drinks order and we had to call across the restaurant to get the bill. At no point did anyone check if we were happy with anything or everything, not even when they brought the bill. The whole experience was extremely offhand.
We have had much better service in the past when it has been much busier, so maybe they were training new staff or fielding the B team. It was very disappointing, particularly as we were taking someone who had never been before and was excited to be going.
Food + drink: 5
Great place for a client lunch, wont let you down
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