SquareMeal Review of
Opened in 1997, Mourad Mazouz’s all-inclusive Heddon Street bolthole introduced couscous, tagines and the exotic thrills of Middle Eastern/North African cuisine to a whole generation. Momo’s still here in all its ornate glory, with a restaurant, café, terrace and basement bar dealing in generosity and charm. For something homely, you can’t do better than the signature harira soup with lentils and tomatoes, followed by the house couscous with slow-cooked lamb shank, grilled lamb skewer and merguez sausage. Livelier flavours also pop up here and there – from a starter of baby aubergines with labneh, rocket pesto, broad beans and lemon confit to a risotto-style dish of green vegetables, rice and nuts with Parmesan emulsion. Brunch boasts a promising range of Maghreb pastries and mint tea, while offbeat afternoon teas are served in the café and terrace.