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Ken Lo’s redoubtable restaurant pre-dates most of today’s Chinese movers and shakers (Hakkasan et al), but well-to-do locals and senior business executives still appreciate the place – especially the privacy afforded by smart pale-wood screens. The kitchen delivers a “professional” take on classical Chinese cuisine, and restrained sophistication is the order of the day as courteous, sympathetic staff move through the plush dining room. Dishes highlight China’s regional diversity and the style can seem a bit dated, but here you will find Cantonese staples including crispy won tons, beef in oyster sauce and steamed sea bass alongside bang-bang chicken, Szechuan spicy prawns with dry chilli and asparagus or Peking quick-fried lamb with spring onions. If you’re planning a big party, order one of the impressive ‘Imperial banquets’ (24 hours’ notice required); otherwise stick to the set menus “for anything resembling a bargain”.
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