SquareMeal Review of
Genteel Wandsworth Town has been crying out for places like MeatUp – a buzzy bar-cum-restaurant where the vibe is squarely aimed at local twenty/thirtysomethings. Ex-Raffles owner Sachin Khanna hasn’t shirked on the design, with red-leather ringside seats by a frenetic open-plan kitchen and cosy date-night tables. Evenings of unobtrusive live music add to the draw. Such a carnivorous name has to deliver on its meat, and ex-Foxlow chef Stephen Hinkley does just that. Our rare-breed deckle (from the cap of the rib) was cooked on applewood, making for a glorious, flame-licked steak that could compete alongside those of Hinkley’s ex-employers at Hawksmoor. A sticky slab of short rib with smoky BBQ sauce was low-and-slow heaven. Either side of this, garlicky scallops served in the shell, super-sweet service and a sensational take on an Old Fashioned – served in a smoke-filled bottle with a splash of King’s Ginger – helped produce a flawless evening.