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Market knows its market, and delivers upright plates of rustic tucker in a pared-back, urban-cool setting. There’s an admirable synergy between the physical space and the food on the plate. Catch a glimpse of the chefs through the de rigueur cutaway into the kitchen, as they pack pig’s cheek and trotter into a pie. The seasons lead the way at lunch and dinner, and there’s brunch, too, where a fry-up or salt-beef hash awaits. Vegetarians get a decent look-in when the likes of gnocchi with wild mushrooms are up for grabs, but rabbit stew with carrots and fennel, or a piscine treat of plaice with brown shrimp butter are the mainstays of the menu. Desserts combine European favourites and British classics, so sticky toffee pudding or pannacotta. We love the set lunch option at£10 for two savoury courses – as good a bargain as you’ll find in Camden.
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