SquareMeal Review of
The name may translate as 'madhouse', but Manicomio is a slick, "professional" set-up – in fact, the craziest thing you'll see is a few pairs of red corduroys among its "colourful customers". Situated on Duke of York Square, the principle draw is a "great" people-watching terrace opposite some chichi clothes stores. The kitchen's breezy pan-Italian food '"never disappoints", but also '"never blows you away'": our grilled octopus with murky lentils was certainly forgettable, although butter-soaked wild garlic and nettle ravioli fared better. Swordfish with zesty orange and earthy olives was decent enough, although the best was saved to last – a beautiful, seasonal plate of strawberry sorbet, honeycomb, meringue and elderflower jelly. Service is eager and friendly, if not always polished, and wines are suitably patriotic. However, all of this comes at quite a price, so make sure to "come with a full wallet".
2/3 courses £24.50/£28.50
Maximum of 6 diners. Includes Tax, excludes service.