SquareMeal Review of
It’s not cheap, but readers reckon the “top-class fare” served in the brasseries belonging to this posh and polished hotel chain is well worth it. Malmaison’s establishments have always had an urbane, sophisticated feel, and their stylised interiors make everyone feel instantly inclined to pop a Champagne cork or two. The bar doesn’t disappoint in that department, with a dozen options, plus an “extensive” wine list (including plenty by the glass) and a roster of theatrical ‘Malchemy’ cocktails. As for the food, it’s a “remarkable” roll call of luxury ingredients in comforting combinations: smooth chicken liver parfait with soft brioche; slow-roasted venison with silky pommes mousseline; lobster risotto; Valrhona chocolate fondant with peanut-butter ice cream – in short seriously indulgent stuff. For a taste of Malmaison at a snip of the price, try the excellent afternoon tea featuring scones, sliders, smoothies and salted-caramel brownies.