SquareMeal Review of
Made of Dough
Wood-fire sourdough pizza is certainly having its moment. And it’s a particularly memorable one at the permanent home of Brixton pop-up/street food joint Made of Dough, on Peckham’s foodie hub, Bellenden Road. Toppings cover the classics (margherita with San Marzano tomato, fior di latte mozzarella and fresh basil) and more unusual options such as a subtly smoky white pizza of chargrilled artichoke, mozzarella, rosemary and lemon. Sides are excellent, too, including a carpaccio di zucchini with red chilli that’s a perfect summer freshener. To drink, choose from a finely honed cocktail list, fizz, wine (mainly from Spain and Italy) or local craft ales. The decor is clean and pared back and the music is worth making a detour for. Fret not over the lack of a dessert-menu proper: order one of their knock-out gelato shakes – Motherf**king peanut butter and vanilla, with or without a shot of Kahlua (obvs always with), say – and satisfaction is guaranteed.