Made in the Shade

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Squaremeal Review of Made in the Shade ?

What was Bacchus Kitchen has been given a 60s art-student makeover by the owner of Après London in Mayfair, with a Woodstock/ Memphis sound-mash to match. This new-look space sets the scene for some confident cocktail-making involving attractive garnishes, fragrant herbs and zingy, hand-squeezed seasonal juices – evident in summer sips such as shady lady lemonade (cucumber and gin). Elsewhere, young lady (a sexy sour) is a 21st-century cousin of the toreador (a 1930s Tequila fix), while Bond-themed Tiffany (Case) is essentially a ‘dirty’ Vesper martini that scores higher than 007 out of 10. You can also quaff craft brews, play ping-pong and enjoy a dozen global wines from £19.50 with small plates including ceviche, chicken liver parfait, caramelised onion and goats’ cheese tart, and mains with a strong soul-food accent – think curried mutton with rice and peas.


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