SquareMeal Review of
Owned by the same two brothers who reinvigorated The Three Compasses on Dalston Lane, this former laundrette has been reinvented as a contemporary neighbourhood bar. It scrubs up well, with honey-toned recycled woods, washed bricks and school furniture – softly lit by copper pendant lamps to create a warm, seductive environment. Happy locals soon make short work of the fancy cocktails created here: grapefruit Gimlet Royale; Champagne Cocktail; Moscow Mule (made with Wyborowa vodka and Square Root ginger beer); and Mexican Sweater (Gusano Rojo Mezcal, coffee, Amaro liqueur and bitters): good value at £7 or less. Order wine from £17 or great London craft beers (Gipsy Hill Southpaw, Fourpure Beartooth and Five Points Pale) with salted snacks and cheese or charcuterie sharing plates served with artisanal bread. The frames of the premises’ old front-loading washing machines have been pegged up in the loos – a reminder of former rinse and spin cycles.