SquareMeal Review of
M Threadneedle Street
Bold in scale, ambition and outlook, Martin Williams’ multifaceted restaurant is a hotbed of unashamed consumption – from its full-throttle cellar to the meat room lit up like a boutique window: “the layout lets you see and be seen”, notes one reader (we advise using the online ‘table tour’ to pick your preferred spot). Beyond the buzz, there’s good food to be had, so prepare to be surprised by a selection of “rare dishes cooked to perfection”. The ‘raw’ menu might yield red prawns with black curry, coconut gel and coconut crumble or smoked Wagyu tartare with apples and foie gras, while grills are (for the most part) a steak-collector’s delight – at a price. Martin Williams used to run Gaucho, which explains why Argentinean rump and an international ‘kilo’ board are offered alongside Japanese kobe fillet at £1 per gram. “Personable, well-intended service” gets the nod, and cocktails come “highly recommended”.