SquareMeal Review of
M Bar and Grill Twickenham
Part of a swanky new development opposite Twickenham station, the commuters’ branch of the M restaurant group couldn’t be better placed, catching the City crowd on their way home and the rugby crowd on their way out. A neon ‘M’ may blaze across the front, but there’s nothing tacky through the door – inside it’s all moderated pastels and low seating in the bar, which is great for snacks and cocktails. Otherwise, if you’re seriously hungry, move on through to the busy modern restaurant, with its shaded chandeliers and open kitchen. Steaks from Auchterarder are the speciality: choose anything from a manageable 200g rump to a gigantic 550g tomahawk, or indulge in some super-luxe Highland Wagyu. Either way, the kitchen delivers, and accompanying sides are spot-on (black garlic aïoli, apple slaw, truffled mac ‘n’ cheese). Those not up to a hunk of cow are missing a trick, although decent alternatives come in the shape of fish and (not so good) chips, rotisserie chicken or tender slow-cooked pork shoulder with spiced apple and buttermilk purée. The wine list glories in its reds, but house selections (on tap) and bottles of the own-label M brand are a well-priced match for a great steak.
M Bar and Grill Twickenham is recommended for
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