SquareMeal Review of
Situated just outside Henley-on-Thames, in leafy Lower Assendon, Luscombes is a “delightful” rural eatery that oozes pubby olde-worlde charms with its rustic furniture, warm neutral tones and cosy fireplace. Lunch is an affordable deal, while dinner is a classy but pleasantly unpretentious affair, with generous space between tables and a menu designed to whet the appetite. Chef/patron Stephen Luscombe, who trained with Marco-Pierre White, is passionate about locally sourced produce and his “consistently excellent” cooking gives classic dishes a contemporary work-out – as in cheese soufflé with celery and walnut salad, local venison and chicken pie with creamed mash or fillet of beef with hash browns, sprouting broccoli, shallot purée and Shiraz sauce. Fish comes up from Stephen’s native Cornwall (think mussel soup with saffron or cod with cod with BBQ cauliflower, apple, pine nuts, sherry vinegar and chips), while desserts such as raspberry soufflé are “absolutely worth the visit”, according to one admiring fan. With friendly, swift service and a well-considered wine list added to the mix, Luscombes “never disappoints”.