SquareMeal Review of
Lounge Bohemia might have been lifted from a John le Carré novel set in the days when Anglo-Russian relations were even deeper in the deep freeze: The Spy Who Came in from the Cold of Great Eastern Street, possibly? Once he’s homed in on his elusive target, the novel’s imaginary hero will find a ‘by appointment-only’ bunker with an unmarked door, lost in a dingy parade of shops – a stylish time capsule of Soviet-era Prague. Behind the bar is a deadpan dude, who uses fiendish ingredients along the lines of alcoholic cotton, fake caviar and ‘electric current’ to create highly palatable drinks (and snacks) as outré as anything you'll find at Nightjar, all imaginatively presented in bonkers bowls, beakers and bongs. As an opener, try Earth (peat-aged whisky, mezcal, malt, 'humid soil essence' and 'dirt scent'). Note to the man on a mission: City suits are strictly verboten.