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Chef Leandro Carreira is the brains behind this super-sleek operation, which looks like an urban chic oasis tricked out by Oliver Bonas, all geometric tiles, soft greys and brushed concrete. Earning his stripes at a succession of East London hotspots, including Viajante and Lyle’s, Carreira’s style takes his native Portuguese cuisine as a base but adds international influences, with a particular nod to Japan. It’s inventive and surprising cooking that doesn’t always gel, but when it does, it’s glorious. Stand-outs on our visit included soft slivers of squid in a lip-smacking umami-rich miso broth with celeriac crisps, and moist presa paired with dry buttermilk and salsify. An unusual dish of fermented potato (it gives the humble spud an apple-like note) dipped in a glowing orange globe of egg yolk caused heated debate: love it or hate it? You decide. A dessert of grilled brioche soaked in sour caramel with crisp bites of hazelnuts was less contentious: it’s an instant hit. An on-trend drinks list keeps pace with the creative food, from the oh-so-hip P&T aperitif (white port and tonic) to new-wave Portuguese wines such as the red Vinho Verde from biodynamic producer Aphros.
Best in London Bridge
SquareMeal 2 Stars
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Tues-Sat 12N-2.30pm 6-9.30pm Sun 12N-3pm
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Rate & Review
Food + drink: 5
I visited Londrino on a friends recommendation, taking a client for a business lunch. Everything they do here is impeccable. From the gin and tonic with a dill twist to the oysters that were out of this world. Really reasonably priced too especially considering the obvious passion that has gone into every dish.
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