SquareMeal Review of
Chef Leandro Carreira is the brains behind this super-sleek operation, which looks like an urban chic oasis tricked out by Oliver Bonas, all geometric tiles, soft greys and brushed concrete. Earning his stripes at a succession of East London hotspots, including Viajante and Lyle’s, Carreira’s style takes his native Portuguese cuisine as a base but adds international influences, with a particular nod to Japan. It’s inventive and surprising cooking that doesn’t always gel, but when it does, it’s glorious. Stand-outs on our visit included soft slivers of squid in a lip-smacking umami-rich miso broth with celeriac crisps, and moist presa paired with dry buttermilk and salsify. An unusual dish of fermented potato (it gives the humble spud an apple-like note) dipped in a glowing orange globe of egg yolk caused heated debate: love it or hate it? You decide. A dessert of grilled brioche soaked in sour caramel with crisp bites of hazelnuts was less contentious: it’s an instant hit. An on-trend drinks list keeps pace with the creative food, from the oh-so-hip P&T aperitif (white port and tonic) to new-wave Portuguese wines such as the red Vinho Verde from biodynamic producer Aphros.