SquareMeal Review of
London Shell Co
If you love both seafood and dining with a difference, we suggest a trip with London Shell Co. Following several pop ups, the seafood specialist now resides aboard The Prince Regent, moored next to Paddington Station. Have a set lunch (in every sense), or wait until dinner for a return cruise to Camden on Regent’s Canal. The miniscule kitchen serves up sparkling, sea-conjuring Carlingford oysters and the seasonal likes of butter-poached hake or vegetable ratatouille. On our visit, hit-and-miss dishes ranged from a delicious mussel, cockle and cuttlefish salad imbued with the sweet tang of red onion, to a creamy combination of smoked cods’ roe and leeks with a chemical aftertaste. Tight tables and terrible acoustics are drawbacks but overall, the boat has a charming atmosphere buoyed along by its small crew. Drinks celebrate Britain via Somerset cider and sparkling Hampshire wine, alongside interesting European bottles to dilute your sea legs.