SquareMeal Review of
Les 110 de Taillevent
The rather stern-looking London sibling of Parisian big-hitter Le Taillevent relies on “charming service” to soften the edges of its dining room. But while the dark-green colour scheme conjures all the atmosphere of the House of Commons during a recess, this repurposed branch of Coutts bank also holds the promise of 110 “exemplary” wines by the glass. Several options are matched by price to each course, making bottle-free drinking intoxicatingly simple – though some tasting notes wouldn’t go amiss. Food-wise, dishes run from restrained green vegetable risotto to the top-hat extravagance of a vol-au-vent stuffed with lamb sweetbreads and crayfish. Pricing is pitched north of bistro territory, but a set menu of simplified options including, perhaps, sardines with garlic toast followed by sea bream a la plancha with mash and bouillabaisse jus, is always available. Desserts include soufflés of various stripes, and the appearance of Colston Bassett Stilton among the cheese options is surely the ultimate compliment from Paris to les rosbifs.