SquareMeal Review of
Le Roi Fou
After a stint heading the kitchen at Anton Mosimann’s private dining club in London, Swiss-French chef Jérôme Henry has chosen Edinburgh’s New Town for his first solo venture. The stylish yet comfortable ‘restaurant des artistes’ has a belle époque feel, sporting red velvet seating and green-grey walls, white tablecloths, fine china and crystal. It makes a fitting setting in which to sample Henry’s modern European creations, where seasonal Scottish ingredients take centre stage. Dining options include daily prix fixe, à la carte, tasting and weekend lunch menus. We enjoyed starters of plump Isle of Skye scallops crudo served with warm confit tomato and green asparagus, and a hearty Hebridean crab chowder with neeps and buttermilk. To follow, grilled Scottish halibut was perfectly cooked, teamed with wild girolles and globe artichoke, while new-season lamb came two ways: roast loin noisette and tender braised belly. Desserts didn’t disappoint, either: Scottish strawberries topped with pistachio crumble, and tangy lemon sorbet doused with Misty Isle gin. The predominantly European wine list (including a decent selection by the glass) is also fit for a king – mad or otherwise.