SquareMeal Review of
Le Relais de Venise L'Entrecôte
A simple thing done well should also be a simple pleasure, and that's exactly what Le Relais strives to provide. This east London outpost of the Parisian chain serves steak-frites and little else – extras, such as they are, include a green salad with walnuts, a 'secret recipe' steak sauce, desserts from a trolley and some appropriate French wines. The aged steaks are flavoursome, and cooked as you like it (we suggest 'à point', literally meaning 'perfectly cooked'), while veggies are simply offered the cheese course instead of meat. Desserts are greatest hits from the ancien régime – profiteroles, crème brûlée, meringues. In an effort to pack 'em in and turn tables, seats are close together so this may not be the best place for care-free secret trysts.