SquareMeal Review of
Le Relais de Venise L'Entrecôte The City
“Great casual dining” is the draw at this City transplant of the original Parisian steakhouse, but don’t come expecting choice. Le Relais de Venise is run along Henry Ford lines: you can have whatever you like so long as it’s green salad with walnuts and mustard vinaigrette followed by steak-frites with a sauce prepared to a secret recipe. Steak is served in two portions, with the second helping kept warm while you tackle the first – “superb beef” is the verdict. Misplaced vegetarians can follow their salad with cheese and frites. Choice does appear on the short, all-French wine list, and on the long French dessert menu, replete with fresh profiteroles, crème brûlée and lemon tartelettes. Soft lighting, dark wood and the black and white staff uniforms lend this 21st-century clone an uncannily established air. No bookings are taken, so be prepared to queue at peak times despite “quick” service.