Le Cochon Aveugle

The name translates as ‘the blind pig’, and the team at this intimate bistro are continuing to wow York’s foodies with their ‘blind’ tasting menus (four or six courses with appropriate wine pairings). Their mastery of seasonal flavours and locally sourced ingredients combined with outstanding service have put this place firmly on the map - although less can be said of the cheap-and-cheerful rustic-chic decor.

Wisely, the focus is on food and drink, as you’ll discover when a hand-picked glass of wine arrives with your stunning L’Arpege egg amuse-bouche. In fact, we loved everything the chef put in front of us, from the tomato pâté de fruit with pecorino to the hand-dived scallop with sea-urchin butter, although nothing could have prepared us for the bread. So simple, yet utterly perfect, the homemade sourdough with cultured butter, beurre noisette and sea salt was pure alchemy. But then, so was the strawberry sofrito with buttermilk polenta that managed to be salty, creamy and tangy, blurring the line between a savoury dish and dessert. The final flourish? A Sauternes egg to mirror the opening amuse. Genius.

For those who want to witness the magic happen, counter dining is available at no extra cost, and there’s a private room on the first floor. The price of the ‘menu aveugle’ is genuinely modest, so it’s worth splashing out on the wine list, which includes an unusual selection of ‘orange and skin-contact wines’. Tables are few, and you’ll need to book well in advance - like right now. 

The blind element of The Blind Pig's name nods to its singular menu. Diners arrive blind to what they will be eating and are taken on a culinary adventure by head chef Josh Overington. Overington picked up some interesting techniques during his stint in Paris, so you can expect top-notch cookery here even if you don't know exactly what you'll be eating. Le Cochon Aveugle blends quite a few different cuisines, so you might see ingredients like yuzu, lardo and bramble on the menu. 

A typical menu at Le Cochon Aveugle usually starts with something light, like house goose ham, a boudin noir macaron or Kumamoto oyster with garden herbs and lemon ice. This pre-starter course will be followed up by a step up in heartiness. Here you might see line-caught mackerel smoked over herbs de Provence, homemade sourdough with cultured butter, beurre noisette and sea salt, or a warm hen's yolk with smoked taramasalata and nasturtium flowers. The main event steps things up again, with lavish dishes of rich ingredients. Hand-dived Orkney scallops might be cooked 'a la ficelle' with sea urchin butter, while Whitby crab might come with cauliflower, fennel jelly and radish flowers. Not afraid to use an ingredient multiple times in one menu, you might see brown crab on toast with a bisque of the same crustacean. Dishes here often celebrate native ingredients, so you could eat the likes of poached brill with elderflower beurre blanc.

Continuing to celebrate unusual ingredients right into dessert, Overington might whip up English cherries baked in fig leaves or canele with goat's milk caramel. Wine pairings are available as well as a range of classic cocktails with a twist, like a rowanberry negroni or smoked strawberry old fashioned. Wines are available by the glass, carafe or bottle, with plenty of grower champagnes too.