Le Champignon Sauvage 333

24-26 Suffolk Road , Cheltenham, GL50 2AQ

  • Le Champignon Sauvage Cheltenham restaurant
  • Le Champignon Sauvage Cheltenham restaurant
  • Le Champignon Sauvage Cheltenham restaurant
  • Le Champignon Sauvage Cheltenham restaurant
  • Le Champignon Sauvage Cheltenham restaurant
  • Le Champignon Sauvage Cheltenham restaurant

SquareMeal Review of Le Champignon Sauvage

SquareMeal award hall of fame 1999-2018 logo badgeSince launching Le Champignon Sauvage back in 1987, David and Helen Everitt-Mathias have turned this Cheltenham champion into a treasured local (and national) destination famed for its highly personal approach and exquisite, two-Michelin-starred food. Famously, David hasn’t missed a service since arriving here and he continues to apply red-hot technique to top-drawer produce and seasonal pickings. The result is a procession of peerlessly subtle flavours and studiously fashioned plates ranging from pig’s trotter stuffed with snails and ox tongue to roast cod with confit chicken wings, chicken juices, salsify and woodruff or pavé of Cotswold venison paired with mugwort, baby turnips and smoked apple purée. Other seasonal game is also worth ordering (roasted wood pigeon with black pudding cream, potato and fig terrine, dandelion and burdock salsa, for example), while desserts might feature a luscious duck egg custard cream pointed up with rhubarb and hibiscus.  David’s wife Helen and her team continue to deliver service that exceed all expectations, while wine buffs have an excellent and kindly priced list to peruse. 

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7.6

Food & Drink: 7.8

Service: 7.4

Atmosphere: 6.4

Value: 7.0

Food & Drink: 4.0

Service: 4.0

Atmosphere: 4.0

Value: 4.0

Alicia B. 07 December 2015

The food at Le Champignon Sauvage lives up to every expectation and the service is second to none. Although we arrived early most of the tables were occupied, creating a nice atmosphere for an early dinner. Our menu highlights were the butter poached lobster starter and the slow cooked lamb saddle. The wine list is also excellent and very reasonably priced too. Overall, a very enjoyable experience and highly recommend.

Food & Drink: 5.0

Service: 5.0

Atmosphere: 4.0

Value: 5.0

Gregory L. 09 November 2015

Le Champignon Sauvage never fails to disappoint, astonishing too that both chef/owner and his wife have never missed a service in almost 30 years! I’m not sure many a chef can boast this. As a two star restaurant you’d expect the price tag to be a hefty one, but the set course menu is astonishingly good value at £26 for two courses and £32 for three. This couple quietly go about their work and continue to exceed expectations. Highly recommend the terrine of Cornish ray and rabbit rillette, and the passion fruit tart with coconut sorbet and mango salad I could eat all day!

Food & Drink: 5.0

Service: 4.0

Atmosphere: 3.0

Value: 4.0

Gizane C. 23 October 2015

It was the first time I had visited Le Champignon Sauvage set in the very lovely Regency period Cheltenham Spa. The food was just what you’d expect from a two Michelin star restaurant, delicious, inventive and packed with exciting flavours. Service was attentive but not overbearing. We went for my husband's birthday and will definitely return again.

Food & Drink: 3.0

Service: 2.0

Atmosphere: 2.0

Value: 3.0

Paul A. platinum reviewer 20 October 2015

While we were hanging about outside the restaurant at 7:28 waiting for the door to be opened, along with a number of other prospective 7:30 diners, we spotted a notice in the window advertising front-of-house vacancies, surprising for such a highly-rated venue, but by the end of the meal we found ourselves wondering how many of the current staff did not intend to stay. When we did get into the dining room we found it light and well-decorated with some interesting art work, and settled in to perusing the menu. Interestingly, and unusually, there was no tasting menu, just a choice of number of dishes for a given total price, so we looked at the starters and found that the immediate selection for my wife, namely lobster, was at a supplement, although she was also attracted by the pigeon dish which she decided to ask for as her mains. I was drawn to the rabbit starter and, of the three meat mains, lamb rather than the ubiquitous Gressingham duck or the venison as we had had that the evening before. All of which made the wine selection tricky, especially as there was only champagne on offer by the glass. The wine list showed a distinct French bias, with nothing from England or other old world sources and just a nod to the new world, and there was no sommelier to offer any advice. The lovage and goat's cheese mousse was the best of the three canapés, and our opinions differed on the merits of the amuse-bouche of roasted pumpkin velouté with maple syrup and bacon foam. Our starters were both good: the rabbit loin very tender and full of flavour, the rillette quite striking and the mousse moreish, but this dish was a bit protein heavy, something which could not be said for the generous serving of very good lobster (native?) with pear slices, Jerusalem artichoke crisps and sorrel purée and a sprinkling of malt crumbs. Curiously my lamb, presumably sliced from the same piece of saddle, varied in tenderness, and the slow-cooked breast was very tasty but did not exactly melt in the mouth, somehow making one feel it was more hoggett than lamb, but the wild garlic pesto compensated for this to an extent. The wood pigeon, upsized from a starter portion, followed the same lines as the other two meat dishes, namely a cut plus a confection of 'haché', both of which were tender and tasty, but the mushy beetroot was unconvincing. We opted for the cheese (£12 supplement) which was a decent selection of French, English and Irish cheeses, with the Roquefort quite outstanding, and were then served a successful palate cleanser in the form of an apple crumble sorbet with crunchy apple pieces on top, which led us into dessert mode. The desserts were both very pretty and my duck egg custard cream turned out to be rather neutral in the face of some fairly acidic rhubarb and hibiscus sorbet, but luckily my wife's chocolate délice with milk ice cream, beurre noisette and butterscotch was one of the most convincing dishes we had all evening. All in all this was an okay meal at an acceptable price but it did not have the wow factor expected, and so it is with much regret that we have to report our disappointment with yet another two-star restaurant which failed to come up to standard.

Food & Drink: 2.0

Service: 3.0

Atmosphere: 2.0

Value: 1.0

Pj H. 14 December 2008

Hard to review when the best was great and the worst was very poor. Plenty of space and pleasant decor. The serving staff were attentive without being too obvious. Many of the dishes were a little over complicated with a bit of this and a bit of that. The bread was excessively crusty and the brioch solid (even crunchy). We were told this is how it was supposed to be. The zander was over-cooked and “tough” but the partridge good. Things inproved with the dessert, the petit fours were great and the coffee ecellent. Most of my eating out is done in London, the home counties and in foreign parts where I would expect and usually get better aspecially at the price.

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