SquareMeal Review of
It opened back in 1947, but the modern-day Le Caprice is really the creation of Christopher Corbin and Jeremy King, who sold it to Caprice Holdings when they set off to launch The Wolseley. Long-serving maître d’ Jesus Adorno has also been instrumental in its longevity, ensuring that staff look after first-timers and regulars with equal care. While some might carp that the place is stuck in an 80s time-warp with its monochrome decor, David Bailey portraits and globally flavoured menu, that’s what the fans love. You might go for Thai-baked sea bass, Indian-spiced lamb or miso-marinated salmon, but we find the European brasserie classics are the best: char-grilled octopus with chorizo and Padrón peppers never fails to delight, calf’s liver with caramelised onions and pancetta is always perfectly cooked and anything involving a plate of juicy tiger prawns is a failsafe bet. Sides are every bit as good and desserts such as steamed treacle pud satisfy the sweet-toothed. Le Caprice may not have the most youthful clientele, but this is St James’s – which makes the size of the bill a pleasant surprise.