SquareMeal Review of
Chiswick’s favourite eatery made its name by serving “superb quality” French-accented cuisine without the formality or price tag you might expect from a Michelin-starred establishment. More than 15 years down the line, it’s still a winner, chic without being stuffy, and perfectly attired for special occasions as well as regular visits. Relax in the elegant dining room surrounded by modern artworks, or repair to the smart terrace if the weather allows. Either way, expect an alluring seasonal line-up of superbly balanced, inventive dishes with bold, emphatic flavours: a starter of coppa with Zerbinati melon, globe artichoke and fresh almonds, for example, proves you can breathe life into a classic with top ingredients. Elsewhere, we rate the delicate steamed Cornish cod with crisp potato galette and lardo di Colonnata, the spiced Aylesbury duck breast (served juicily pink atop a bed of rainbow chard) and the melt-in-the-mouth rhubarb crumble soufflé. The cheeseboard is a whiffy winner, and the sommeliers’ suggestions are spot-on when it comes to the notable wine list.