SquareMeal Review of
This enduring eatery on the Mosaic Building’s sunny piazza is aimed at Limehouse locals who do give a ‘figa’ about value. Behind the contemporary design flourishes (all shiny surfaces &
devilishly uncomfortable chairs) lurks an ‘Italian to the core’, serving up giant helpings of all the old faithfuls & more besides. Vast bowlfuls of orecchiette alla barese (minced beef,
artichoke & aubergine) or penne all’arrabbiata (around a tenner a go) are ‘secondo-sized’, although half-portions are available. This is unashamed, ‘guilty pleasure’ eating: decidedly passé
avocado con gamberetti, prosciutto e melone, pollo sorprese, cassata & profiteroles are irresistible 70s throwbacks. Wines are a basic ‘best of Italy’ selection that zigzags from Frascati to
Chianti, Gavi to Barolo. Service is cursory, but it’s all done ‘very politely & with good heart’.