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Although it’s secreted away in the leafy suburbs of St John’s Wood, eating at this thoroughly romantic evergreen might just transport you to the heart of Paris – an illusion of bonhomie reinforced by gregarious owner Catherine Parisot and her thoroughly Gallic, genuinely welcoming staff. The handwritten, daily changing menus need little explanation, as long as you’re well-versed in bourgeois favourites, and you can’t go wrong with the classics here: mussels and scallops in saffron sauce; homemade foie gras terrine; roasted turbot with hollandaise sauce; rack of lamb with whole garlic; pan-fried magret of duck finished with cassis sauce. There are mighty ribs of veal for two to share, while desserts are all about indulgence – so forget your diet and go straight for the crème brûlée, chocolate truffle, warm apple tart or the stinky French cheeses. Set menus offer the best value.
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