SquareMeal Review of
Now approaching its 15th birthday, L’Etranger can feel a little like a throwback to a different time; a pre-recession era when restaurants were moody (note the chain-mail curtains and black leather banquettes), fusion food was the rage and the fizz flowed freely. Yet while most of its early-noughties contemporaries have all fallen by the wayside, this place continues to thrive, thanks to the excellence – and originality – of its Franco-Asian menu. The creation of executive chef/co-owner Jérôme Tauvron, it melds the classicism and finesse you’d expect of France with vibrant flavours from the orient (especially Japan). From a trilogy of Colchester rock oysters or a starter of Charolais beef tartare with quail’s egg and summo polenta chips, via pots of Iranian beluga caviar, to the signature caramelised Alaskan black cod with miso and sushi rice, this is an experience geared towards luxury. Champagnes take up seven pages on the 1,600-strong wine list. What credit crunch?
Former Champagne List of the Year
A classical Champagne list, made up mostly of grandes marques. L’Etranger arranges its Champagnes by label, with a staggering selection of styles and formats from a range of great names – including Ruinart, Dom Pérignon (14 vintages), Krug, and Salon. A (wealthy) fizz-lover’s paradise.