Kiln 22

Squaremeal Review of Kiln ?

The name of Ben (Smoking Goat) Chapman’s second restaurant tells you everything you need to know: it’s cramped, full of fire and spins out baked clay pots filled with outstandingly appetising noodle dishes from the northern Thai borderlands. Kiln’s focus is on casual dining, with a long, metal counter running parallel to the open kitchen: various Thai-style barbecues deal with the clay-pot dishes, while modern grills turn out the meat skewers, smoked sausages and chickens that complete the menu. Our must-order is a sticky, dense assemblage of glass noodles with pork belly and brown crab, but there’s also grilled Tamworth pork loin paired with a sweet, dark fish-sauce dip and super-spicy Laos-style salad with roasted rice and a heavy dose of chilli. Order stir-fried greens or brown jasmine rice to counteract these intense, salty flavours, and drink quality beers or something from the ever-evolving wine list. Uncomfortable stools don’t encourage lingering and mark-ups sometimes seem high, but this high-voltage newcomer is an undoubted hit.

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58 Brewer Street ,London W1F 9TL

Overall rating: star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar full


Spicy weekend lunch

by   platinum reviewer (85)

Mar 2017

We arrived at around 12.30 on Saturday, I was half expecting not be able to get in as I’d heard such good things about the food, it turns out we were just ahead of the rush as by 1pm, there was a queue out of the door. There were a couple of large tables already seated downstairs, and as we had stools in front of the open kitchen, we got to see most dishes get cooked and plated up in front of us, which we thought would help us choose, but in reality made it more difficult as we wanted everything....

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Joanna G.'s rating

star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar full
  • Food & Drink: 10
  • Service: 10
  • Atmosphere: 10
  • Value: 10

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58 Brewer Street ,London W1F 9TL

Overall rating: star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar empty


Small lively underground spot.

by   bronze reviewer (14)

Dec 2016

A group of 4 of us ate downstairs pre-theatre. it only has 5 bench-seating wooden tables with room for about 25. We sat from 5.30- 7pm and there were more empty seats than occupied by the time we left; but the counter upstairs was full then. A limited menu - 2 starters of lamb on skewers and sliced soy-cooked chicken; then 2 fish and 4-5 meat dishes, most with mangalitsa pork. Then stir-fried greens and brown rice. All was spicy (the chillies were very!), hot, freshly prepared and looked good. The...

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Timothy P.'s rating

star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar empty
  • Food & Drink: 9
  • Service: 9
  • Atmosphere: 7
  • Value: 9

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  1. Published :

    The Picky Glutton :: The Picky Glutton Kiln

    Second acts are hard, whether you’re switching careers, releasing a second album or opening a follow-up restaurant. With the latter, the easiest ways forward is to copy the same template as the original or dilute your idea for a wider audience. Sometimes, second restaurants feel like poorly-planned spill-over rooms for the original or are actively worse. The guys behind The Smoking Goat, one of my favourite restaurants of 2014, have taken a different tack with their follow-up Kiln.

    Located a short walk away from the original in Soho, Kiln has taken over the premises of what was an old-school Soho Italian...
    More from The Picky Glutton »

Essential Details for Kiln

  • Cuisine: Thai
  • Area: Soho
  • Price: £35
  • Wine: £20

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