SquareMeal Review of
Tucked away on Hanway Place, tiny and unassuming Kikuchi has since 1998 been an antidote to the flashier likes of other high-end Asians such as Hakkasan around the corner. But Kikuchi isn’t immune to change, and has recently introduced an omakase style of dining, where dishes are selected by the chef at two separate sittings. Superbly fresh sashimi is the house speciality, with fatty tuna and yellowtail among the stand-outs. Other hits include salmon sashimi pre-loaded with wasabi, slippery sea urchin with bright bubbles of baby salmon eggs that burst in the mouth, as well as a dainty portion of grilled sea bass, with crunchy asparagus and edamame beans wrapped in light pastry. Sushi is also available while, to drink, a paired flight of saké comes with a helpful notecard explaining each one and the order in which to drink them. Pudding is limited to a helping of fluffy black sesame ice cream (you might want to go elsewhere for a more substantial dessert). Eating at Kikuchi might not come cheap (menus start at £48 and head upwards) but graceful, sweet service and top-drawer raw fish make this a must for sushi and sashimi purists.