SquareMeal Review of
Nestled in the Royal Academy’s Annenberg Courtyard, the 19th-century Keeper’s House has been restored as a home-from-home for Friends of the RA, Jermyn Street tailors, ambassadors and even the PM (apparently). The food is overseen by Oliver Peyton and co, with pride of place going to the formal restaurant on the lower ground floor. Dramatic classical casts adorn the windowless dining room’s olive-green walls, but the menu strikes a very different note – think ‘modish postmodern’ rather than ‘old masters’. Artisan ingredients and seasonal pickings dominate a perky line-up that runs from crispy lamb’s sweetbreads with rainbow chard and wild mushrooms or sea bass carpaccio with basil, coriander, mint and lime to veal chop on the bone with roast turnip or Welsh lamb ragoût with creamy polenta and salsa verde. Note that the space is only open to the public from 4pm onwards.