SquareMeal Review of
Kateh Maida Vale
Smartly designed, light and airy, with rough-plastered white walls and dark-wood tables, this canal-side restaurant specialises in a blend of traditional and contemporary Persian cuisine based on the day’s market produce (much of it organic). You can make an entire meal from a selection of beautifully presented mezze such as zeytoon parvardeh (Taggiasche olives with pomegranate and walnuts), jigar (pan-fried organic chicken livers with balsamic, carrots and leeks) and mirza ghassemi (grilled smoked Japanese aubergines with eggs, tomato and garlic). The kitchen also delivers a range of ‘natural’ char-grills (marinated partridge on Umbrian lentils with angelica powder, for example), plus a few fish dishes and veggie stews, while desserts combine distinctly Persian ingredients with classical French cooking techniques – try danmarki (a Middle Eastern-style mille-feuille). Kateh also flies the organic flag when it comes to wines from smaller producers and appellations.