SquareMeal Review of
Jidori Covent Garden
Having scored a yakitori hit in Dalston, Aussie chef Brett Redman is repeating the formula with a second branch of Jidori in Covent Garden. Spread across multiple floors of an extraordinary terraced house, this clean-lined, wood-accented offshoot expands on the original line-up of Japanese grilled skewers, small plates and daily specials – although the free-range, seasonal ethos remains. Head chef Shunta Matsubara has transferred from the Dalston original to oversee the artisan Tokyo-built grill – so expect a full roster of yakitori alongside more creative ideas such as tsukune (minced chicken with egg yolk), a katsu curry ‘Scotch egg’, okra-nomiyaki and the celebrated ginger ice cream with miso caramel and sweet-potato crisps. It’s all backed up by an expanded list of artisan sakés, craft beers and classy cocktails – try the frozen yuzu Margarita with togarashi salt. The final ace up Jidori’s kimono sleeve, however, is a private karaoke booth in the basement for those in party mood.