The light, airy interior and eye-catching views over Borde Hill Garden makes for an elegant dining experience in this acclaimed local restaurant, where friendly staff serve contemporary dishes from a kitchen well attuned to the calendar. ‘Modern classics working with nature’ is the motto, and seasonality is everything when it comes to the regularly changing menu: expect starters of Selsey lobster with peach, radish and cucumber or slipcote cheese with heirloom tomato, peas and broad beans, ahead of wild sea bream and squid with seaweed potato, almond and samphire or rack and sweetbread of South Downs lamb with nasturtium gnocchi, leek and courgette. For dessert, think sticky toffee pudding or an unusual pairing of angelica cheesecake with cucumber and granola. It’s also good to see a smattering of English wines on the well-spread list. “Always perfect” is a typically enthusiastic verdict that we endorse. Note: Café Elvira next door to the restaurant is run by Jeremey’s wife, Vera.