SquareMeal Review of
James Martin Manchester
TV chef and heartthrob James Martin has moved into new territory with this “absolutely fabulous” self-named “gem” attached to Manchester 235 – the hottest entertainment and casino complex in the heart of the city. Inside, the restaurant itself has been completely refurbished with industrial-chic decor, studded girders, exposed brickwork (note the unusual ceiling) and an open-to-view ‘meat market’ specialising in British-reared Wagyu and beef from the Cumbrian Lakeland Fells. Otherwise, the menu gives native regional ingredients an eclectic spin – perhaps Red Hill pork cheek with kale velouté, apple and black pudding crumb, Himalayan salt-aged lamb accompanied by braised neck terrine, grapes, ‘leek grass’ and red wine or poached lobster paired with squid, black pasta, shellfish consommé and spring onion. There’s also a full line-up for vegetarians, while desserts might see sticky toffee pudding alongside peanut parfait with William pear and malt loaf. In short “high-quality food with a price tag people can afford” – all backed by “excellent service” and a well-spread wine list.