SquareMeal Review of
James Cochran EC3
Pop-up fan and former sous chef at Fulham’s Michelin-starred Harwood Arms, James Cochran finally has a permanent home above BYOC East. While the furniture store-style decor is a little jarring, the eight-course tasting menu (there’s a five-course option too) is not to be sniffed at. Successfully fusing international flavours, Cochran’s menu is a real treat. His signature deep-fried jerk chicken comes in a crunchy Corn Nut (roasted corn) batter coating, heightened by a well-executed, subtle kick of Scotch bonnet chillies – sourced from the garden of the maître d’s dad, no less. Our highlight however, was Herdwick lamb neck and haunch, cooked to perfection and served with earthy, roasted Jerusalem artichokes, all slathered in smoked crème fraiche. A light dessert of silky buttermilk ice cream, topped with crumbly white chocolate soil and clementine, left us on the right side of full. With such great food, it’s a shame that long waits between courses let it down. This negative was partially redeemed by the chatty, fun service we experienced. Prices are reasonable for the standard of food too, while the predominantly Spanish and Italian wine list impresses. Don’t expect silver service, but JC EC3 is more than worth a visit.