SquareMeal Review of
“A pioneer of genuinely local food, wines and craft ales”, twentysomething chef-patron Isaac Bartlett-Copeland and his equally fresh-faced crew are working wonders at this tiny Scandi-style restaurant, creating “maximum flavours from minimal ingredients”. High levels of concentration and “passion” are needed to hone the delicately constructed, exquisitely presented plates of food, which provide valuable content for Brighton’s Instagram accounts. The “ever-evolving” multi-course tasting menu is super-seasonal and hyper-local (the number of food miles is listed for each ingredient), so expect dishes with lots of on-trend grace notes: scallops with horseradish and apple; Denver steak with mushroom ketchup and fennel fronds; pork belly with broccoli, kohlrabi and cabbage. Meanwhile, foraged pickings come into their own when it comes to sweet treats such as sea buckthorn and crab apple sorbet or honey, sloe and walnut ice cream. Restaurant manager Alex Preston is “brilliant on the wine front”, so ask his advice when it comes to the all-Sussex list, which includes superb sparklers from Nyetimber and Ridgeview, whites from the Albourne Estate and even a fairly decent Pinot Noir from Davenports. Alternatively, opt for a Brighton Gin and Regency Tonic. We wholeheartedly agree with the fan who says this is “a real find” – “one of the best meals I’ve had outside London in a long time”.
UK Top 100 Restaurants
SquareMeal’s Best Restaurants in the UK 2018 is compiled using votes from our annual survey, last conducted in spring 2018. Thousands of readers took part and the results were moderated by SquareMeal’s editor and his nationwide team of professional reviewers. The UK survey does not include any restaurants in London. Click here for the full list of SquareMeal’s Best Restaurants in the UK.