SquareMeal Review of
Twentysomething chef-patron Isaac Bartlett-Copeland and his equally fresh-faced crew are a picture of focused intensity in the open kitchen of this tiny North Laine restaurant. High levels of concentration are needed to create the delicately constructed, exquisitely presented plates of food, which provide valuable content for Brighton Instagram accounts. The multi-course tasting menu is super seasonal and hyper local (the number of food miles is listed for each ingredient), so expect dishes such as an abstract splash of roasted squash purée sprinkled with yeast extract, seeds and rosemary oil, before a portion of roasted chicken on perfect circles of Little Gem lettuce and salt-baked celeriac. The commitment to local sourcing extends to the all-Sussex wine list, which includes superb sparklers from Nyetimber and Ridgeview, whites from the Albourne Estate and even a fairly decent Pinot Noir from Davenports. Alternatively, opt for a Brighton Gin and Regency Tonic.