SquareMeal Review of
Will Hyde be on a hiding to nothing at a tricky site where others, such as cod-Soviet bunker Ruski’s, have bombed? The new operators’ facelift of what was latterly (very briefly) Beyond, sees this darkened basement ready for another tilt at success; this time recast as a late lounge ‘where East London meets West London’. In the unlikely event that spoilt-for-choice Hackney hipsters hightail it to under-served K&C for a shimmy at Friday’s ‘ol’ skool’ club night, they’ll join dressy young Kensington Kool and the Gang for pan-Asian grub and cocktails from a list that owes much to the late Beyond: RA! (a Ciroc Coconut and Wray & Nephew rum Thai punch); a vodka, pink peppercorn and guava Bellini, New Dawn; and The Final Touch, a Nikka whiskey Tokyo-hattan. Pair wine from £27 a bottle (or Ace of Spades Champagne at £500) with dim sum, Viet spring rolls, chicken satay, soft shell crab tempura, mixed ‘bubbling and smoking’ sashimi, Korean-style marinated beef with chive mash and lotus root chips, and duck and watermelon salad, followed by coconut crème brûlée perhaps.