SquareMeal Review of
Hudson's by Craig Atchinson
Following the Grand Hotel’s £15m refurbishment, its destination restaurant, Hudson’s, has moved from its original site to a smaller, adjacent room with fewer covers – which should allow greater focus on Craig Atchinson’s culinary endeavours. With help from sous-chef Craig Rogan (Simon Rogan’s son, no less), the cooking is now centred on a nine-course tasting menu that makes ample use of locally sourced seasonal ingredients and foraged pickings for a procession of on-trend dishes in the modern British idiom. Expect anything from Duke of York potato with lovage, shallot and roasted chicken skin to Leven Farm duck with beetroot, chicory and hedgerow berries – although the star turn is a plate of aged beef sirloin with oxtail, barley, turnip and alliums. Fish also shows up well (think stone bass with langoustines, fennel and buckwheat), while desserts might include a combo of chamomile, plum and almond. It’s worth shelling out an extra £40 for the thoughtful wine pairings too.