SquareMeal Review of
House of Hammerton
Sixty years after Islington’s Hammerton Brewery shut down, the marque was resurrected in 2014 by family member Lee Hammerton and friends. Such has been the demand for its new microbrews that the gang has opened its own taproom at the former Wig & Gown near Highbury Corner. In a deconstructed room low on frills, punters can explore a cast of two dozen keg and cask beers backed up by juicy bottled brews (available to go), spirits, cocktails, wines and US-style snacks from pop-up chefs. Core hand-pulled draughts include ruby-rich Life on Mars, Pentonville Oyster Stout (based on a 1930s recipe) and Belgian-esque white beer, Blanche – a collaboration with Basque brewer Mala Gissona. There are some notable London-brewed guests, too. The building itself has history: in a 1970 publicity stunt, John Lennon and Yoko Ono swapped their recently shorn trademark locks for a pair of Muhammad Ali’s blood-spattered boxing trunks. Imagine!